Diagnose & fix today — for far less than a new unit.
Capacitor swap, logic board repair, gear replacement, sensor calibration — every major opener brand (LiftMaster, Genie, Chamberlain, Marantec). Quoted in writing before any work begins. Most repairs are far cheaper than a full unit replacement when only one component has failed. Family-owned since 1979, dispatching from Douglasville and Alpharetta with W-2 Metro techs only — no subcontractors.
Metro diagnoses and repairs LiftMaster, Genie, Chamberlain, and Marantec openers — capacitor, logic board, motor gear, and safety-sensor failures. Most opener repairs are far cheaper than full unit replacement when only one component has failed. Quoted in writing before any work begins. Lifetime workmanship. Family-owned, never subcontracted, dispatching from two Atlanta-metro locations since 1979.
Most "broken openers" are actually one component failing — capacitor (40–60% of cases), logic board, gear, or sensor. Multimeter test on-site identifies which, then we quote the part + labor. No "your opener is dead, you need a new one" without showing the diagnostic first.
Common LiftMaster and Genie capacitors, logic boards, drive gears, and safety-sensor pairs are stocked on every truck — not "we'll have to order it Monday" after a no-show. Most repair calls handled in one visit. Discontinued or rare parts (older Marantec, early-2000s Genie) sourced within 24–48 hours.
If the unit is past 18 years, has multiple simultaneous failures, or uses parts no longer available — we tell you straight. Repair stops being viable; new opener (LiftMaster Elite 8160W or 8500W) is the right call. Diagnostic from the repair visit isn't separately billed if you proceed with the install.
The diagnostic line between a quick capacitor swap and a full new-opener install isn't always obvious from outside. Here's what actually fails, why, and how we tell you straight which side of the line you're on.
The capacitor — by far the most common opener failure. Roughly 40–60% of opener service calls come back to a degraded run capacitor in the motor. Symptoms: motor hums but the door barely moves or doesn't move at all, slow start, intermittent operation, or an unusual click followed by silence. The capacitor is a small cylindrical component (about the size of a roll of quarters) that supplies the voltage boost the motor needs to break inertia at startup. It's an inexpensive part and takes about 30 minutes to swap, which makes it the cheapest opener repair we do. Most LiftMaster and Genie openers built between 2005 and 2018 use 2–4 standard capacitor specs that we stock on every truck.
Logic board failures — second most common. The logic board is the small circuit board inside the opener housing that orchestrates everything: motor control, sensor input, remote signal decoding, travel limit memory, force-limit safety. Common causes: lightning-induced power surges (Atlanta gets a lot in summer storm season), capacitor failure cascading into the board, water damage in detached carriage-house garages with leaky roofs. Symptoms: opener doesn't respond to remote OR wall button, wall button works but remotes don't, intermittent random operation, or completely dead unit with no indicator lights. Whether the board is replaceable as a unit (LiftMaster, Genie typically yes) or fused into the motor housing (some discontinued brands — at that point full replacement is the call) determines the path forward; we'll quote it in writing on-site.
Drive gear wear — the third common failure mode. Most chain-drive and screw-drive openers use a brass or nylon main drive gear that wears with cycles. Symptoms: motor runs at full speed but the door barely moves or doesn't move (stripped gear), grinding noise during travel, or door drifts down after stopping (worn gear can't hold). We stock common LiftMaster and Genie gears in every truck. Belt-drive and direct-drive jackshaft openers (LiftMaster 8500W, etc.) don't have this failure mode — one reason we recommend them for replacement.
Safety sensors — easy fix, often misdiagnosed. Every opener built since 1993 has a pair of photo-eye sensors near the floor on each side of the door — they detect obstructions and reverse the door. Symptoms when sensors fail or misalign: door opens fine but won't close (reverses immediately), opener LED blinks 10x while attempting to close, door closes only if you hold the wall button down. Real fix is sensor realignment (often the answer when they're just dirty or nudged) or a full sensor pair replacement. DIY attempts often miss that BOTH sensors must show solid LED — one solid, one blinking means the system reads "blocked."
The repair-vs-replace decision. We use three signals on-site. (1) Age: openers under 15 years are usually worth repairing; 18+ years are usually past useful life and parts get hard to source. (2) Failure mode: a single component failure is typically a quick repair; multiple simultaneous failures suggest the unit is at end-of-life. (3) Parts availability: discontinued brands (some early-2000s Genie, older Marantec) may have no replacement parts in stock — at that point repair stops being viable. We diagnose on-site and tell you straight which makes more sense for your specific opener. If the call ends in replacement instead of repair, the diagnostic visit isn't separately billed.
If any of these describe your door right now, don't assume the opener is dead. Most of these are single-component failures with a quick repair fix — far cheaper than a full new unit. Call (770) 526-1214 for diagnosis.
Most common opener call. The capacitor isn't supplying the voltage boost the motor needs to break inertia. The hum is the motor's start-attempt loop. Diagnostic confirmation takes 5 minutes with a multi-meter; capacitor replacement is a 30-minute job — typically the cheapest opener repair we do, far cheaper than assuming the whole unit is dead.
If the remote stopped working but the wall button is fine, it's typically a remote-pairing reset (5-minute fix) or a fried receiver chip on the logic board. If the wall button stopped but remotes work, it's the wall-button wire or a different logic-board fault. Atlanta summer power surges are the #1 cause of logic-board damage. We diagnose first, then quote board repair or swap in writing.
The 10-blink code on every modern opener means the safety sensors near the floor read "blocked." Most often: spider web across one sensor, lawn debris kicked into the lens, or sensor knocked out of alignment by a soccer ball. Both sensor LEDs must show solid (not blinking) for the system to allow close. Realignment is the most common fix; full sensor pair replacement only when one's actually failed. Easy diagnosis.
Most opener calls end in repair. When repair stops being viable (18+ years, multiple failures, parts unavailable), full replacement with a modern LiftMaster Elite is the right call. Or if the door itself is the problem, here are the other services we'd look at on-site.
When repair stops making sense — full LiftMaster Elite install (8500W jackshaft, 8160W chain, or 8550W belt). Quoted in writing on the same diagnostic visit.
Worn rollers stress the spring and opener. Nylon high-cycle upgrade is quieter and longer-lasting.
Springs, cables, rollers, panels, openers — all repairs we handle, all in one place.
If the door is mechanically heavy, the opener works overtime — and dies early. Replacing fatigued springs often fixes "opener problems" that aren't really opener problems.
22-point inspection catches spring fatigue, cable fray, and roller wear before they become emergencies.
GreenSky financing through Synovus Bank. 0% APR options available on qualifying installations.
Background reading on garage door mechanics from our team's field notes.
Diagnosis-first on every call. We show you the failed component before we quote the part, and we always document the fix in writing.
When Metro answers the phone, a Metro tech shows up. Never a subcontractor. Trained in our Douglasville shop on multi-brand opener diagnostic, capacitor and logic-board work, and safety-sensor calibration. LiftMaster ProVantage authorized. W-2 employees in branded Metro trucks.
Want to meet the full team? See every Metro tech →
Opener repair pricing varies by failed component (capacitor vs logic board vs gear vs sensor) and brand-specific part cost — so we don't publish a flat rate. What we do guarantee: a diagnostic before quoting, an upfront written estimate before any work begins, parts and labor itemized, and the repair backed for life.
Diagnostic first, then component pricing (capacitor, logic board, gear, sensor) plus labor — itemized before we start. The number on your written estimate is the number on your invoice.
Every Metro technician is a W-2 employee. Never a subcontractor. Trained in our Douglasville shop on spring sizing and winding procedure. Branded trucks. The name on the door matches the name on the paycheck.
Lifetime workmanship + 90-day make-it-right. If a spring we installed snaps under normal use, we come back. The spring manufacturer's warranty passes through to you.
What you see is what you pay — same price across the metro, backed for life.
"Opener was humming but the door wouldn't lift. Two other shops told me I needed a brand-new unit. Called Metro for a second opinion — Jake showed up, tested with a multimeter in 5 minutes, said it was just a worn capacitor. Replaced it on the spot, opener works perfectly. Honest people are rare in this trade."
"Lightning hit the area, opener fried. Brandon came up from Alpharetta the same afternoon, diagnosed the logic board, swapped it out — and pointed out a worn drive gear that wasn't urgent yet but worth knowing about. Will call them when the gear gets noisy. Trustworthy techs."
"Door was opening but wouldn't close — opener LED was blinking. Dewayne diagnosed it as a sensor knocked out of alignment by the lawnmower. Realigned both sensors, cleaned the lenses, done in under an hour. Could have sold me a new sensor pair I didn't need; didn't. That's the company you call back."
Based on 1,200+ reviews across both Metro locations — 4.9★ on Google, A+ on BBB, 4.9★ on HomeAdvisor, 4.9★ on Thumbtack · Read all reviews →
West and South Atlanta calls dispatch from our Douglasville HQ; intown East Atlanta + Buckhead + Brookhaven calls dispatch from our Alpharetta location. Common LiftMaster + Genie repair parts on every truck.
Outside our Phase 1 cities? Call (770) 526-1214 — we serve 100+ Atlanta-metro neighborhoods.
Don't see your question? Call us — we love nerding out on doors.
Call now for same-day opener repair across the Atlanta metro — diagnostic first, then quote in writing. Most opener repairs are far cheaper than assuming the unit is dead. Lifetime workmanship.
